Gardening at High Elevation, in New Mexico

Gardening at 5000 feet in elevation in Albuquerque, NM presents some unique challenges:

· Negligible precipitation: 7-8 inches on average annually.
· Radical daily temperature fluctuations. A 40 degree swing in a day is normal, but up to 60 degree fluctuations occur from time to time.
· Intense sunlight and heat: summer temperatures of at least 90 to 100 degrees and blinding UV year-round.
· Soil lacking organic matter.
· Fiercely dry winds.

In my experience, grasses take this environment in stride. Not surprisingly, Albuquerque and much of New Mexico were once vast grasslands. Of the 29 ornamental grass genera offered by Bluestem, 20 of them (species thereof) are recommended in our New Mexico-specific gardening books and nursery catalogs/websites (see list below). The remaining 9 require either cool temperatures, significant moisture, shade, or acidic soil, or a combination thereof, conditions that do not occur naturally in most gardens here. New Mexico is a large state with many varied microclimates, however, and the intrepid gardener in a mountain or riparian setting, where it is cooler, moister, and/or shadier, might find success growing these more tender grasses (though some extra TLC could be required).

part of Sara's beautiful garden

With the exception of native New Mexican plants, ornamental grasses are the most reliable and hardy group of plants that I have used in my garden. One must remember, however, that they are not (typically) native and will require more thought as to location in the garden and water needs. Before ordering, be sure to consult local gardening resources (books, websites, nurseries, extension services, etc…) as to the particular species and its use and care. If you provide for the needs of the particular grass, however, you will be rewarded with year-round textural interest, a beautiful visual counterpoint for your perennials, and a lovely performance as the grass dances in the wind.

Ornamental grass genera, species thereof, known to grow in New Mexico or parts of New Mexico are (check local resources on particular species):

• Achnatherum
• Andropogon
• Bouteloua
• Buchloe
• Calamagrostis
• Deschampsia
• Elymus
• Festuca
• Helictotrichon
• Koeleria
• Miscanthus
• Nassella
• Panicum
• Pennisetum
• Saccharum
• Schizachyrium
• Sesleria
• Sorghastrum
• Sporobolus
• Stipa

Thanks to Sara Douglas Scott for submitting this information.

Growing Grasses in Calgary, AB - Part 2

List of ornamental grasses suitable for the Calgary climate:

· Andropogon gerardii
· Bouteloua curtipendula
· Bouteloua gracilis
· Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’, 'Overdam', 'Avalanche'
· Calamagrostis epigejos
· Carex grayi
· Carex muskingumensis
· Deschampsia cespitosa ‘Pixie Fountains’, ‘Goldschleier’, ‘Goldtau’
· Elymus cinereus
· Festuca idahoensis 'Siskiyou Blue'
· Helictotrichon sempervirens
· Koeleria pyramidata
· Luzula sylvatica
· Miscanthus sinensis var. purpurascens
· Panicum virgatum
· Panicum virgatum ‘Rotstrahlbusch’, ‘Squaw’
· Phalaris arundinacea ‘Feesey’
· Schizachyrium scoparium
· Sorghastrum nutans


List of grasses that may succeed with extra protection in Calgary’s climate:

· Alopecurus pratensis ‘Aureovariegatus’
· Carex flacca
· Carex muskingumensis ‘Oehme’
· Carex pendula
· Festuca glauca ‘Select’, ‘Elijah Blue’
· Luzula nivea
· Miscanthus ‘Giganteus’
· Miscanthus sinensis ‘Blutenwunder’, ‘Gracillimus’, ‘Malepartus’, ‘Silberfeder’, ‘Strictus’, ‘Yaku Jima’
· Molinia arundinacea
· Molinia caerulea
· Molinia caerulea ‘Variegata’
· Panicum virgatum ‘Heavy Metal’, ‘Prairie Sky’, ‘Shenandoah’
· Sesleria caerulea
· Sesleria heufleriana
· Sporobolus heterolepis
· Stipa brachytricha

Growing Grasses in Calgary, AB - Part 1

Calgary's Gardeners Deal With a Very Challenging Climate

Fortunately there is an ample selection of grasses for the challenging conditions in the Calgary area, as proven both by controlled hardiness trials at various universities and by the more prosaic trial-and-error methods used by nursery growers and home landscapers.

Below are descriptions of six of the best grasses for the Calgary area. A list of specific grasses will follow in a separate post.

Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’ (Feather reed grass): This hardy, narrow and tall (up to 2 M), cool-season grass grows to its fullest potential in open, sunny areas with extra water during dry spells. However, it is very adaptable and can also be grown in partial shade in a variety of soil types and moisture levels. A single ‘Karl Foerster’ plant makes a striking specimen, but they can also be used to more dramatic effect in greater numbers. A swath of them planted along a border becomes a kinetic weathervane as their upright flowers dance in a breeze.
Follow this link to view further info about "Calamagrostis Karl Foerster" on our website.

Deschampsia cespitosa (Tufted hair grass): In terms of growing conditions, the many forms of Tufted hair grass are similar to ‘Karl Foerster,’ and the two grasses are often planted together. Boasting names such as ‘Bronze Veil,’ ‘Gold Veil,’ and the smaller ‘Gold Dew,’ they reveal Deschampsia’s versatility and charm. Like ‘Karl Foerster’ they start blooming in late June and their flowers persist into winter. Their blooms are large but are so finely textured that they resemble a sublime haze of gold floating above foliage. Both ‘Karl Foerster’ and the green-leaved varieties of Tufted hair grass are great choices that can hold their own against Calgary’s winters.
Follow this link to view further info about Deschampsia on our website.

Carex muskingumensis (Palm sedge) and Luzula sylvatica (Greater wood rush): Even though much of Calgary is dry and sunny, many shady areas occur around buildings and taller vegetation. These niches that have lower light levels are appropriate places to plant Palm sedge and Wood rush. Neither plant is a true grass, but both are good choices for handsome, winter hardy plantings.

Palm sedge (up to 1 M tall) is adaptable, but in natural conditions it favors moist (even wet) areas when it is growing in full sun; in shadier locations it tolerates drier conditions. It is often used in landscaping to display its palm-like foliage which nicely complements perennials with large leaves such as Hosta.

Follow this link to view further info about Carex muskingumensis on our website.

Wood rush is a slow-to-establish small plant that is useful for lightly to moderately shaded areas. Although some protection from winter winds is helpful for reducing dieback of the tips, it is somewhat amazing that Greater wood rush maintains its green color year-round. Also, once it settles in and its roots spread, wood rush is a very tough plant for shade. Its fibrous root system allows it to become a weed-proof groundcover that can handle a fair amount of drought (larger plants are produced if the soil around them isn’t allowed to dry out).
Follow this link to view further info about Luzula sylvatica on our website.

Schizachyrium scoparium (Little bluestem): Native to mixed grass prairie habitat, Little bluestem (50-100 cm tall) is an excellent choice for just about any sunny garden in Calgary. Its fountain of narrow leaves is appealing year-round. The most commonly grown variety – both for hardiness and ornamental qualities – is ‘Blaze,’ whose name conjures an image that captures its fall colour. For a combination that will produce decades of enjoyment, plant large drifts of Little bluestem around groupings of Pinus flexilis (Limber Pine), which grows wild in this region.

Follow this link to view further info about Schizachyrium on our website.

Miscanthus sinensis (Chinese silver grass and various other names): If you took a survey of what ornamental grass first captured the public’s attention, the majority would probably say Miscanthus – this wouldn’t be surprising, given Miscanthus’s stunning visual presence and its physical stature, which is closer to shrubs than perennials. Its various cultivars and species come in a range of sizes but they tend to be medium to large. To grow the best specimens it is important to consider micro-climates: The ideal position is a sheltered area that receives at least six hours of summer sun; a good location would be near a southwest-facing wall that reflects extra sunlight in summer and retains some radiant heat in winter. All of the many varieties of this grass are quite attractive, but Miscanthus sinensis var. purpurascens merits special mention: It is winter hardy, its reddish-green foliage and fall color are alluring, and its smaller size allows it to be mixed in with other perennials without overwhelming them.

Follow this link to view further info about Miscanthus on our website.

Planting Our Bare Root Plants & Plugs

Many of our customers order the bare root Miscanthus plants, particularly Miscanthus Giganteus. Just in case you don't know how to plant it, I have a picture of one below. The green line indicates the soil level. There should be a point where the stalk changes from light to dark. That is the previous soil level. So try to plant it to approximately the same depth again.

For planting the plugs and other bare root plants, we have a video. Sorry it is not as crystal clear as we would like it to be. It became unclear in the upload to YouTube.

For Screening or a Fence: Willow Fedge vs Coppiced Willows

That Jim (6'2"), the owner of Bluestem Nursery, standing amongst

Salix viminalis Superba. That is just one year's growth!

(on the willows, not Jim!)

Willows are great for screening. They put on a lot of growth in a single year, especially when coppiced (cut to ground level) in late winter/early spring.

There are two ways to grow them: upright, which involves putting cuttings in the ground, and building a fedge, which involves putting 6'+ rods into the ground on an angle. Let's consider the pros and cons of a building a fedge vs a simply planting a stand of willows:

Fedge (more info on our website)

Pros:

• sturdy
• permanent (meaning year round)
• unique
• will keep out deer and other larger animals
• can be kept narrow
• gives you screening the first year 

Cons:

• will require pruning at least twice a year
• if not pruned the branches will flop and look messy
• requires some effort to build
• because of the pruning required, it may not be very tall

A stand of coppiced willow plants

Pros:

• inexpensive
• easy
• requires pruning only in late winter
• many ways to approach it (see Willows for Screening) on our website 
• will probably keep out deer, once it grows taller
• shelters wildlife

Cons:

• needs to be cut down at some point (however, see the link above)
• will not give much screening the first year
• will be quite wide, though stray branches can simply be pruned, at anytime of the year

Root Systems of Prairie Plants

A customer pointed out this interesting information, from the Illinois Native Plant Guide, on the root systems of native plants. Since we occasionally get asked about the root depth of our grasses, and because we sell 8 of those shown in the diagram, I thought it may be of interest. Click here to view.

It is a bit difficult to read the names of the plants, so here are those that we carry:

• Sorghastrum nutans (Indian grass) - 4th from the left
• Andropogon gerardii (Big bluestem) - 9th
• Sporobolus heterolepis (Prairie dropseed) - 11th
• Bouteloua curtipendula (Sideoats grama) - 12th
• Panicum virgatum (Switchgrass) - 14th
• Schizachyrium scoparium (Little bluestem) - 16th
• Koeleria cristata (pyramidata) (Junegrass) - 19th
• Buchloe dactyloides (Buffalo grass) - 21st

Note that the first one is so small that you may miss it when counting from the left (its Kentucky bluegrass)

Click on the coloured text to go directly to our website to view more info aabout each grass.

Nova Scotia Community College - Living Wall

I received a link to this video of a living wall under construction at the Waterfront Campus of NSCC in eastern Canada.

Congratulations to all involved. It looks beautiful!!